Dishwasher Repair & Installation

Standing water after a cycle is usually one of three issues: a clogged drain hose (food debris or grease buildup), a failed drain pump, or a backed-up air gap fitting at the sink. We check the drain hose routing first (it should loop up to at least the underside of the countertop to prevent siphoning), clear any visible blockage, then test the drain pump operation. If the air gap is the culprit we clean it out — that's often the easy fix homeowners miss because it sits hidden behind the faucet escutcheon.

Dishwasher odors come from food residue accumulating in three places: the filter at the base of the wash chamber, the door gasket folds, and the drain hose. We pull and clean the filter, wipe down the gasket, run a citric-acid or commercial cleaner cycle, and verify the drain hose has proper slope so wastewater fully evacuates. If the odor persists, we check for a failed check valve in the drain solenoid — old residue settles in the line and creates a permanent funk.

Yes — Fisher & Paykel single and double drawer dishwashers are popular in LA and OC condos and high-end residential, and we install both single and double models. Clearance verification is critical: the drawer mechanism needs different surrounding cabinet dimensions than a standard pull-down. We verify electrical (dedicated 15A circuit), water supply (3/8" compression with hammer arrestor), and drain (3/4" PVC or copper with proper air gap or high-loop). Permits are pulled where required by the jurisdiction.

Yes — relocating a dishwasher to a new spot in the kitchen requires re-routing supply, drain, and 120V electrical to the new location. We plan the new rough-in path (under-floor, through-wall, or overhead joist run), pull a permit if the AHJ requires one (Long Beach and most cities do for plumbing relocations), and execute the work in coordination with cabinetry and electrical sub-trades. Patches at the old location are sealed properly so you don't get pest or pipe-freeze problems.