Toilet Repair & Installation

A running toilet is wasting water and money — usually one of three components fails: a worn flapper (the rubber seal at the bottom of the tank that doesn't fully seal anymore), a failed fill valve (the assembly that refills the tank, often called a "ballcock"), or an improperly-set overflow level (water rising above the overflow tube and constantly draining into the bowl). We diagnose, replace the failing component, and verify the fix with a dye test that confirms no leak-through.

Yes — a rocking toilet usually means the closet flange (the floor connection) is at the wrong height, broken, or the wax ring has failed. We pull the toilet, inspect the flange, replace the wax ring or wax-free seal, shim the bowl if needed to make it sit flush on the finished floor, and re-secure with new closet bolts. A rocking toilet that goes unaddressed often causes a wax-ring failure, which leads to a slow leak that damages subfloor and ceiling below.

Low flush power is usually a partial clog in the trap or the jet hole at the base of the bowl, a closed angle stop limiting fill rate, a fill valve that's set too low so the tank isn't reaching proper level, or — for older toilets — accumulated mineral deposits restricting the rim jets. We diagnose by checking tank water level first, then run a flush volume test, then inspect the trap and jets. Sometimes the right answer is replacing a 1990s 5-gallon-per-flush dinosaur with a modern 1.28 GPF high-efficiency unit.

Yes — bidet seats (Toto Washlet, Kohler, Brondell) and integrated bidet toilets are popular upgrades and we install both. Bidet seats typically need a GFCI outlet near the toilet (we can coordinate with electrical) and a tee fitting at the angle stop for water supply. Integrated bidet toilets are direct replacements that require the same rough-in dimensions plus power. CSLB #1081283 covers the plumbing; we coordinate the electrical if needed.